For the Price, Think Monterey Chardonnays…or Not

In the wine judging business, it's either great or awful. The ordinary is not heralded because that's considered waffling or hedging. Today, let me say this: Fence straddlers unite.

About two years ago, I took a look at the vast selections of chardonnay from Monterey, Calif., and I had to shrug my shoulders. I was neither put off nor taken to the heights of rapture. Recently, I blind-tasted 24 Monterey chardonnays and I have to report more of the same. None of the wines, which ranged from $10 to $42, was awful, but a scant few had the charm and charisma you expect from a world-class wine region.

That less-that-stellar recommendation comes with a couple of golden caveats.

First, you want a bargain? Monterey is not a bad place to look. While you can do better price-wise from places like Chile and Australia, I find the quality-to-price ratio to slightly be in Monterey's favor.

Look at the Carmel Road Chardonnay. I don't think you'll find many wines in its $15 price range from other regions to be as good.

Caveat No. 2: There are a few exceptions, wines that do trip the light for me, such as Silver (from the makers of Mer Soleil and Caymus), Seco Highlands (from Kendall-Jackson) and ol’ reliable, Estancia's Pinnacles Ranches, but they are a small minority.

So I can't say it's bad or it's great with Monterey chards. But I can equivocatingly say it's safe. Can’t I?

2006 Carmel Road Chardonnay, Monterey, Calif.

• $16.50

• Two thumbs way up

• Exciting flavors and aromas of papaya, apricot, pineapple, green apple, lime and Meyer lemon. It is full-bodied, but with lots of concentrated fruit and touch of cream, vanilla and nutmeg. What a bargain!

2005 Seco Highlands Chardonnay, Arroyo Seco, Calif.

• $30

• Two thumbs way up

• Intense aromas of pineapple, mango and papaya. Ever-changing flavors of tart green apple, pear and banana with light notes of cream and vanilla. The way chard should be: fruit-driven with support from oak.

2006 Joel Gott Chardonnay, Monterey, Calif.

• $15

• Two thumbs up

• Intense aromas of pear, grapefruit, peach and lots of citrus, such as tangerine, lemon and grapefruit. It is fun and refreshing with a note of hazelnut.

2006 Silver Unoaked Chardonnay, Santa Lucia Highlands, Calif.

• $42

• Two thumbs up

• Straightforward, with plenty of citrus and clean mineral notes. It has bracing acidity with a peppery quality that should make it a great food wine. Seemed to get better as it warmed.

2006 Estancia, Pinnacles Ranches, Chardonnay, Monterey, Calif.

• $12

• Two thumbs up

• Bright flavors and aromas of citrus fruit with a touch of apricot and lime. It's supported by something along the lines of cream soda, but in a good way. An excellent food wine.