A Case of Rules for Touring Wine Country

Recently, I received letters from intrepid readers Paul G. Neal of Atlanta and Audrey Wigman of Cumming. Essentially, they had the same question. We’re headed to wine country (Neal to Napa and Wigman to Sonoma), where should we go and what should we do? I get this question a lot. So much that I have a standardized 12-point response, which I could not sent to Neal at the time and had to rely on my Swiss cheese memory for my advice. So, here you go, Paul, a full case of recommendations. Hope you have a good time:

1. Make An Appointment—You don’t have to be a Type-A, obsessive, but setting up an itinerary is a good idea for visiting wine country. The best tours, most genuine hospitality and most interesting times are had at wineries that generally are not open to the general public. If you have appointment anxiety, the alternative is to show up in wine country sans rendezvous and hit the obvious tourist wineries. There, you’ll be herded around like cows and land up in an over-priced gift shop. By making appointments, you’ll avoid this and will likely talk to a real winemaker as opposed to a summer intern working as a tour guide.

2. On Being Late—If you’re going to be late for an appointment, call to advise the winery. They expect—to a degree—that you will be running late, especially later in the day. But calling ahead to let them know is very much appreciated.

3. If Your Feet Are Happy…—Wear comfortable shoes. You’ll do a bit of walking around the winery and if you’re lucky you’ll be visiting a vineyard or two. The cellars can be pretty cool…literally. Think about a light jacket, too.

4. Drink Plenty of Water—The climate is often dry in wine country. You’ll be exercising subtly with all the walking. You’ll be sampling a fair amount of wine. Happy campers stay hydrated! I suggest you buy a six-pack of bottled water and keep it handy in your car and your room.

5. Rule No. 5—There is no Rule No. 5.

6. Spit! Spit! Spit!—I know it’s gross, but you’ll get used to it. Spitting is the only way to taste a lot of wine and not find yourself falling down by noon. Also, spitting, in a way, allows you to drink and enjoy your wine during lunch and dinner with much less guilt and fewer consequences. Mealtime (as opposed to standing around in a tasting room) is when you want to be drinking wine anyway.

7. Be Careful—Wine has alcohol in it. Alcohol makes humans drunk. Driving drunk is illegal. Enough said.

8. Lunch With The Vines—Some of the best meals you’ll have will be among the vines. Most wineries have some kind of picnic area or certainly wouldn’t mind you spreading out a blanket in a nice shady spot on their property. If you buy a bottle of their wine, they’ll probably be even more accommodating. In more developed wine regions, there are delis that specialize in boxed lunches. (When in Napa, try Dean & Delucca’s and Oakville Grocery for some tasty lunches-to-go.)

9. If You Like ’em, Buy ’em—If you like the wine you taste at a particular winery, buy it. It’s a compliment to the winemaker and they’re in business to sell wine. Don’t, however, expect grand discounts. They’ll likely be regular retail prices. Try to get the wines you buy back to your air-conditioned room if possible. Wine does not like hot trunks. If you can’t avoid the hot trunk, just try to park in a shady spot and shrug your shoulders.

10. Reason #2 To Buy ‘em—Another reason to buy wine at the winery: It makes for great memories when you open those bottles back at home, (especially if you snagged a bottle only available at the winery). It’s also fun to share the wine with friends and tell the tale of your adventures. It’s worth the trouble of shipping.

11. The Trouble of Shipping—Getting the wine back home can be a pain. There are wine shipping services available in the more developed wine regions. They provide, for a fee, the special boxes and deal with the shipping companies so your wines arrive safely at your front door. Some wineries will be able to help, especially if you’re buying a half-case or more of their wine. Local wine stores in wine country often have impossible-to-find wines and have shipping services (they may also help ship your wine booty from the wineries). When in Napa, look up Groezinger’s in Yountville or The St. Helena Wine Story (right next to Dean & Delucca’s) in Napa.

12. Beware of Shipping During the Summer!—The last thing you want—after spending a lot of time and forking over your hard-earned dough—is for your wine to nearly reach its boiling point on a hot airport tarmac. Truly, this is not good for wine. Some services will hold your wine and ship when the weather cools a bit.

Where to Go

While Napa Valley is rightly described as a slice of heaven on earth, it can be crowded and expensive. Broaden your horizons and seek out other wine regions, like these:

• North Georgia—Yes, we have one and it’s getting better all the time. www.georgiawine.com (706) 878-9463 ext. 124.

• Yadkin Valley, N.C.—A fast-rising star with some of the best wines in the Southeast. www.yadkinwinetours.com (336) 793-4488.

• Virginia—Northern and central Virginia were making wines before there was a California and have never been doing it better than now. www.virginiawines.org (804) 344-8200 or www.monticellowinetrail.org.

• Sonoma—It’s bigger and more varied than Napa with some of California’s biggest players. www.sonomawine.com (707) 522-5840.

• Livermore Valley, Calif.—Just as far as Napa from San Francisco, but none of the crowds and better golfing. www.livermorewine.com (925) 447-9463.

• Monterey County, Calif.—Rugged and spread out, but beautiful. Don’t like rugged? Hang out in chic Carmel or trendy Cannery Row. www.montereywines.org (831) 375-9400.

• Paso Robles, Calif.—None of the glitz and glamour of Napa, but all of the hospitality. Great wineries bunched around the town of Paso Robles. www.pasowine.com (800) 549-9463.

• Santa Barbara, Calif.—Think pinot noir. Just a two-hour drive from Los Angeles. www.sbcountywines.com (805) 688-0881.

• Willamette Valley, Oregon—Pristine with a deep respect of the earth. Long and spread out, but some great B&Bs to choose from. www.oregonwine.org (503) 228-8652, www.willamettewines.com (503) 646-2985.